Huskies in Miniature
The Highest Quality Alaskan Klee Kai Puppies The Breed Has To Offer
Prepare for Your Mini Husky Puppy
PICK UP SCHEDULE:
Your klee kai puppy can go home at eight weeks old. We do not arrange pick up on Sunday as that is our family day. We begin scheduling everything about one week before the puppies are eight weeks old.
When you first bring home your new klee kai puppy, they are used to eating about 1/4 cup three times a day. We feed around 7 am, 1 pm and, 5 pm, Once the puppy is 7-8 weeks old we try to feed about 1/3-1/2 cup twice a day. Your puppy will go home with a small ziplock baggie of puppy food. If you switch dog foods you should start by giving 1/3 of the new food and 2/3 of the old food --- have them eat that for about a week and then go 1/2 and 1/2 for a week and then go 2/3 to 1/3 for a week and then go 100% with the new food.
COLLAR SIZE - Most of our puppies are under 5 lbs when they go home at 8 weeks. The collar size is usually 8-10”
KENNEL - We recommend that you crate train your puppy. If you work all day and the puppy will be home alone, I recommend you get a puppy pen to give him or her room to exercise and relieve themselves. You can put your puppies crate inside the pen along with pee pads or a fake grass patch, food and water dishes, toys, and chew bones. Read our Puppy Supply Page for more information
At Kika Klee Kai, we suggest that for daytime crating when you are going to be gone, that you get a hollow bone from the pet shop and stuff it with peanut butter, cream cheese, cottage cheese, or canned dog food ---- always use something that the dog loves but does not get at any other time. Present the bone only when you have to leave. The bone will be long enough so all the food can't be reached by the tongue or by the toes and it will take your puppy a long time to dig out what can be reached.
The trick to alleviating separation anxiety is to keep them calm for the first 20 minutes after you leave — if you let them start screaming for you they get panicky and some can get hysterical which of course is not good for the puppy. Remember to take the bone away immediately upon returning home and do remember to take a bottle brush and clean it out so the bacteria on the left over food won't be so apt to grow. Another option is to put it in the dishwasher to clean it out, but the pup won't appreciate the bone as much without the previous puppy smells on it.
POTTY TRAINING - Many people prefer training on pee pads that can be purchased at pet stores. If you decide to do this, I suggest you purchase the tray that the pee pads can fit into. Without the tray to hold down the edges, most of my pups think that it is just something to drag around and tear apart. They also sell puppy pads that will stick to the floor to help prevent the pup from dragging the pee pad around as a toy.
At night, if your dog starts to cry, I suggest you don't get right up and take it out. If you do that, the dog will learn that a cry will make you get up. I suggest you sternly tell it to be quiet and wait, put your fingers in the gate so it can lick them and be reassured that you are nearby. Usually the pup will just lay down again and cuddle the fingers for a moment or two and fall back to sleep. If the dog continues to fuss, then I would get up and take it out to potty. As soon as it does, then you praise it and put it right back to bed. NO PLAYING, NO EATING, AND NO TREATS FOR DOING THEIR JOB.
I have found that without fail, every time one of them continues to fuss during the night, there is a potty related reason for it.
Almost always these guys will potty and think they are finished, but within a minute or two of running around they will go again. If you don't have them finish outside, then they will probably finish inside, because they really do have to go more.
STRESS - It is very likely that the transfer into a new home with new people, and the stress of traveling will cause some loose stools for the first couple of days, and also may cause the puppy to be shyer than it was when it left home. Be patient and do not discipline much until the puppy adjusts to the new environment. On the other hand, don't wait too long to start your training, as we don't want the puppy to be training you instead of you training it.
Also, all dogs carry some parasites and even though your dog has been dewormed, it is possible that the stress can activate the parasites. It is also possible for the dog to be exposed to different things during its travel. I would suggest that in about a month or so that you have the stool sample checked by your vet to see if there is any additional treatment needed. After that, you should have a stool sample checked on the schedule given to you by your own vet. Every area is different and treatment depends on the individual dog's symptoms, as well as on what is going on with other animals in your area.
PUPPY SHOTS - Your puppy will be given puppy shots, usually beginning at about 7 to 8 weeks of age. Your puppy's shot record book will be given to you when you pick him up or attached to his shipping crate. You should check with your own vet to determine when the next shot is needed. Normally shots are given 3-4 weeks apart.
RABIES SHOTS - In our area we do not give rabies shots until the dog is four months old and the first shot is good for one year. The second and following shots are good for two years. You should check with your vet to determine the schedule your dog should be on.
OTHER SHOTS - In our area we do not have exposure to ticks, so our dogs are not inoculated for any of the diseases that ticks cause. Also in our particular area, there are very few cases of heartworm — so unless our dogs have been away from this area, or there are mosquitos in the area, we do not treat for heartworm. You should check with your vet and see what is necessary in your area.
MICROCHIP - Your puppy has been microchipped, however, the chip is not registered. Please remember to take the time to register the microchip into your name as soon as you get your puppy. All chip registration information will be given to you when you pick up your puppy or it will be attached to his/her crate.
FLEAS - In our area, we do not have a bad flea problem. Therefore, your dog has not been treated for fleas. I do NOT suggest that you purchase a flea collar — it bothers me that the directions tell you not to touch the flea collar and for you to be sure to wash thoroughly if you do touch it. What is dangerous for me is apt to be dangerous for my dog in my opinion. So, again, if you have flea problems in your area, I suggest you contact your vet for proper treatment for your dog.
VITAMINS - All of our dogs are on a multi-vitamin from Nu-Vet. Please read more or Order Now. We highly recommend you put your puppy on this multi-vitamin. We use the wafers and puppies under 5 lbs will only get 1/2 a wafer per day.
RAWHIDES AND OTHER CHEWS - If you give your dog rawhides to chew on, it is tasty and good for their teeth, but their stomachs cannot digest big chunks. You should check the chews that you give them periodically, and remove them when they get small enough to fit into their mouth. You don't want to witness your dog choking on a small piece of rawhide that you could have taken away had you been alerted to its size.
MEDICAL QUESTIONS - If you think there might be a problem with your dog's health, then you should go to your veterinarian instead of asking some online group or friends. If you have a question, then there could be a problem and you should communicate with your vet. By all means, write to me and ask me about my experience with a particular problem, but do not expect my experiences to be a substitution for professional medical attention. You should use layman's experiences in conjunction with your vet's training and experience.
HERE'S HOPING YOU HAVE A LONG AND HAPPY RELATIONSHIP WITH YOUR ALASKAN KLEE KAI.
Kika's Klee Kai
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